GFW:2022年时尚行业报告(EN).pdf

上传人:pijiangmayan 文档编号:46971941 上传时间:2022-06-23 格式:PDF 页数:108 大小:16.49MB
下载 相关 举报
GFW:2022年时尚行业报告(EN).pdf_第1页
第1页 / 共108页
GFW:2022年时尚行业报告(EN).pdf_第2页
第2页 / 共108页
GFW:2022年时尚行业报告(EN).pdf_第3页
第3页 / 共108页
点击查看更多>>
资源描述

《GFW:2022年时尚行业报告(EN).pdf》由会员分享,可在线阅读,更多相关《GFW:2022年时尚行业报告(EN).pdf(108页珍藏版)》请在皮匠网上搜索。

1、THEProgression to a Net Positive Fashion Industry2022MONITORIMPACT PARTNERSDATA PARTNERPRINCIPAL STAKEHOLDERSPrincipal Stakeholders also include: Better Work, WWFPublisherGlobal Fashion AgendaAuthors Holly Syrett and Felicity LammasCopywriter Cornelius GrupenGraphic DesignStudio Daniel Siim 2022 Cop

2、yright Global Fashion Agenda*While mentioned parties are supportive of the content of the GFA Monitor publication relevant to their fields of work, this does not mean that their organisations nor members holistically endorse this report. The report does not constitute the explicit views of GFAs part

3、ners and is not intended to bind partners or member brands to any commitment or course of action.Acknowledgements The authors thank all of those who contributed their time and expertise to this report. Global Fashion Agenda Data PartnerSpecial thanks go to Higg for providing Brand & Retail Module da

4、ta to baseline high level industry progress reporting, and the colleagues who contributed to this report, including Del Hudson, Amy Duryea, Chris Royalty, Cashion East, Alexandra Rosas and Danny Pritz. Thanks also to the Sustainable Apparel Coalition for supporting this review process. Global Fashio

5、n Agenda Impact PartnersApparel Impact Institute, Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Fair Labor Association, Social & Labor Convergence Program, Textile Exchange Principal Industry StakeholdersACT, Alliance for Water Stewardship, Better Work, Business for Social Responsibility (BSR), Fair Wear Foundation,

6、Fashion For Good, Fashion Revolution, Global Living Wage Coalition, PEFC, Policy Hub, Reverse Resources, Sustainable Apparel Coalition, The Industry We Want, The Microfibre Consortium, WWF, ZDHC Global Fashion Agenda Strategic PartnersASOS, BESTSELLER, Global Fashion Group, H&M Group, Kering, Nike,

7、PVH Corp, Ralph Lauren Corporation, Target Global Fashion Agenda Associate PartnersAllbirds, Crystal International, Erdos Group, Everlane, Ganni, TAL Apparel, Zalando Global Fashion Agenda TeamFederica Marchionni, Jonas Eder-Hansen, Peder Michael Pruzan-Jorgensen, Maria Luisa Martinez Diez, Dana Sch

8、ou, Alice Roberta Taylor, Constance Beswick, Sandra GonzaAbout this Report The GFA Monitor is intended as a resource to guide fashion leaders towards a net positive fashion industry. The Monitor builds on the Fashion CEO Agenda framework which was established in 2018 and puts forward a vision statem

9、ent for the fashion industry that highlights the imperative need for social and environmental sustainability. The priorities outlined in this report present opportunities for fashion brands and retailers to set fact-based sustainability strategies and take action to achieve the visionThis first edit

10、ion of the Monitor is a co-creation with Global Fashion Agendas Impact Partners and stakeholders who are acknowledged as principal industry experts in their respective fields. GFAs data partner; Higg supported the presentation of aggregated performance data to contextualise industry progress and sta

11、rt developing baselines. GFAs strategic and associate partners acted as a sounding board. As this report evolves, we welcome further cooperation with other industry organisations. Learn more at globalfashionagenda.org About Global Fashion AgendaGlobal Fashion Agenda is a non-profit organisation that

12、 fosters industry collaboration on sustainability in fashion to drive impact. With the vision of a net positive fashion industry, it accelerates action by mobilising, inspiring, and educating all stakeholders.The organisation has been leading the movement since 2009 and convenes the renowned interna

13、tional forum on sustainability in fashion, Global Fashion Summit, the Innovation Forum, thought leadership publications including Fashion CEO Agenda and Fashion on Climate, and impact programmes including the Circular Fashion Partnership. Visit globalfashionagenda.org to learn more.About HiggHigg is

14、 the sustainability insights platform for consumer goods businesses - delivering software and services for measuring, managing, and sharing supply chain performance data. From materials to products, from facilities to stores, from emissions to working conditions, Higg unlocks a complete view of a bu

15、sinesss social and environmental impact. Launched in 2019 as a public-benefit corporation, Higg is trusted by brands, retailers, and manufacturers to provide the single source of ESG intelligence they need to accelerate progress. Learn more at About Higg BRMThe Higg Brand and Retail Module (BRM) is

16、used by brands to evaluate social and environmental impacts across owned operations and their supply chain partners, from packaging and transportation, to retail and corporate offices.Developed by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, the Higg BRMs methodology is designed to align with emerging due dil

17、igence requirements in the EU. As the SACs technology partner, Higg is excited to provide aggregated self-reported and verified and anonymised data from the BRM to show how brands and retailers are tracking progress towards a more equitable and sustainable supply chain. More than 200 brands across m

18、ore than 20 countries used the Higg BRM to measure 2020 performance, and more than 500 brands are committed to implementing it by 2024. Learn more at Opening AddressClosing Word Executive SummeryIntroductionAbout Global Fashion AgendaEndnotesRespectful and Secure Work EnvironmentsBetter Wage Systems

19、Smart Material ChoicesResource StewardshipCircular Systemsp.1p.98p.2p.4p.99p.100p.7p.26p.61p.43p.79ContentsThis report is interactiveFashion is about change. You can let it happen, or you can make it happen.At GFA, we are all for making it happen and for shaping the agendas of all stakeholders. In f

20、act, the aspiration to shape the course of change in the fashion industry is the reason GFA and this report exist. Imagine a fashion industry that is not only exciting and bountiful, but sustainable and inclusive as well. Imagine fair pay and secure work environments for everybody who works in fashi

21、on. Imagine a substantial reduction of resource consumption and emissions. Imagine innovative new business models that decouple growth from production and allow for self-expression outside of garment ownership. In short, imagine a fashion industry that has a positive impact on everyone and everythin

22、g it touches.Just imagination? On the contrary, we believe that the imagination is only the beginning of a possible reality if we dare to make new pathways and bear the challenges along the way. The fashion industry has the power to inspire top talent, engage fashion lovers, attract potent investors

23、, and win the support of communities worldwide. It is a net-positive fashion industry that will continue to prosper despite disruptive forces that range from digitisation and automation to the coronavirus pandemic and geopolitical tensions. The fashion industry is already advancing towards a more su

24、stainable, more inclusive, and more resilient future, but the current efforts will not suffice to align the industry with the target to limit global warming to 1.5 degrees and achieve the Sustainable Development Goals laid out by the United Nations. But its not too late. Its time for bold commitment

25、s, decisive actions, and rigorous follow-through.As fashion leaders, you have the power to shape the course of change. You have the power to bring about a net-positive fashion industry that puts back more into society, the environment, and the global economy than it takes out. This report features t

26、he progress the industry has made so far. Many of the solutions and tools that fashion needs to improve already exist. Its time to use them ambitiously. Now, as policies to promote a sustainable fashion industry emerge, its more essential than ever to take bold and urgent action. Think of this repor

27、t as your companion on your journey.Dear fashion leaders, please join forces with your peers to create a meaningful change for a prosperous fashion industry. Indeed, if you do, everyone wins.Federica MarchionniCEO, Global Fashion AgendaOpening Addressp.1Contents / Opening Address / Next chapterExecu

28、tive SummaryThe fashion industry employs an estimated 70 million people and generates tremendous economic value, but its current practices take a toll on the planet and value isnt distributed fairly among the people that generate it. To create a net-positive fashion industry that gives more than it

29、takes, fashion leaders must continue to join forces with their peers and partners across the fashion value cycle to achieve systemic change on five fronts: Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Resource Stewardship, Smart Material Choices, and Circular Systems.ContextThe fash

30、ion industry has been working to establish respectful and secure work environments for decades. Despite many significant improvements, human rights abuses, excessive working hours, and unsafe conditions remain prevalent in parts of the value chain.ContextLiving wages are essential to ensure workers

31、can live in dignity and support their families. Research suggests that wages paid in many garment-producing countries are insufficient to support decent livelihoods.Respectful and Secure Work EnvironmentsBetter Wage Systems OpportunityCollectively, fashion brands and their partners have an opportuni

32、ty to drive positive social and economic development for the people it employs, their families, and their communities by upholding human rights, creating secure working conditions, paying fair wages, and promoting wellbeing.Action areas Implementation of responsible purchasing practices and increase

33、d transparency of working conditions Driving equality and empowerment, e.g., by sanctioning discrimination, addressing wage gaps, and ensuring equal access to training opportunities Improving the terms of employment by building stronger systems for the protection and representation of garment worker

34、s Developing better social protection of workers, supported by collective bargaining agreementsOpportunityAlthough most fashion brands do not pay the wages of production workers directly, they can make a difference by working with their partners to promote fair compensation and better wage systems,

35、underpinned by fair purchasing practices that will help end poverty for millions of garment workers globally.Action areas Adopting more responsible purchasing practices that reflect direct and indirect labour costs Enabling the implementation of the right to freedom of association (access to collect

36、ive bargaining) Promoting wage parity regardless of gender, race, and nationality Promoting wage protection and security, e.g., by adopting digital wage payments and implementing responsible order exit processes and policies. Go to chapter Go to chapterSynopsisBringing about a net-positive fashion i

37、ndustry is a monumental task. To complete it, all stakeholders must act in lockstep. We hope this report will inspire and guide them in their efforts.p.2Contents / Executive Summary / Next chapter Go to chapter Go to chapter Go to chapterSmart Material Choices Resource StewardshipCircular SystemsCon

38、textFashion currently contributes up to 4 four per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions. If the industry proceeds on its current trajectory, it will fall short of the decarbonisation targets required to conform with the 1.5-degree pathway.ContextThe fibres and materials the fashion industry uses

39、put huge pressure on natural resources such as water, energy, and land. At least two thirds of a brands environmental footprint can be attributed to its choice of raw materials.ContextCurrently, the fashion industry relies on a linear business model. This model puts undue stress on natural resources

40、 and lacks long-term resilience to disruption.OpportunityBy adopting a holistic stewardship approach, the fashion industry will be able to reduce its reliance on finite natural resources and in many cases save costs in the long-run. A multi-stakeholder approach will help reduce GHG emissions and dri

41、ve innovation around new materials, manufacturing methods, and business models.Action areas Increasing energy efficiency and the use of renewable sources to divert coal use, curb emissions to air, and limit global warming Driving towards less extractive sourcing models and adopting regenerative solu

42、tions to lower the impact on land and protect biodiversity Pursuing a context-driven approach to water stewardship that aims to mitigate shared water risks Eliminating hazardous chemicals and ramping up sustainable chemical management to minimise the risk to water, land, and peopleOpportunityBy incr

43、easing its share of preferred materials and driving innovation to develop innovative new materials and business models, the fashion industry will be able to reduce the footprint of materials production.Action areas A shift from virgin fossil-fuel based to recycled synthetics, supported by scaling up

44、 textile-to-textile recycling systems A nature-positive approach to the production of plant-based fibres, including wider use of regenerative practices Responsible forest and water management, use of clean energy in pulping and fibre creation, as well as the use of next-generation alternatives to ma

45、n-made cellulosic fibres The adoption of stringent standards for animal welfare, regenerative grazing, and land managementOpportunityBy moving to circular business models, the industry will be able to decouple economic growth from the use of natural resources, taking advantage of increasing end user

46、 demand for new ways to access fashion.Action areas Designing products so that they can be used more, remade, recycled, and, and after maximum use and cycling, safely composted Unlocking the environmental and the economic potential of circular business models (such as rental, resale, repairs, and re

47、making) for fashion Engaging in pre-competitive collaboration and joint investments to drive textile-to-textile recycling at scale Ensuring a just transition from linear to circular practices for all actors in the fashion value cyclep.3Contents / Executive Summary / Next chapterIntroductionp.4Conten

48、ts / Introduction / Next chapterFashion has entered a new era. The majority of fashion leaders recognise the importance of sustainability and the need to change. This shift in mindset is overdue; less than eight years remain to align the industry with the 1.5-degree pathway and achieve the Sustainab

49、le Development Goals1 as laid out by the United Nations. Fashion has a key role to play in achieving these targets and, although the industry is not solely responsible, if fashion misses these targets, dire consequences for the planet and human society will ensue.Communities will be displaced as sea

50、 levels rise, supply chains will be disrupted by extreme weather events, precious natural ecosystems will be destroyed, and essential commodities such as water, food, and fuel will become scarce. According to the latest landmark report by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), 40 per

51、cent of the worlds population are highly vulnerable to the impact of climate change. The UN Secretary General has referred to the findings of the report as “code red for humanity”.2 Garment workers located in vulnerable regions in the Global South are at disproportionate risk, with workers located i

52、n vulnerable regions already experiencing climate change-linked impacts causing direct consequences on livelihoods and places of work.3 The ongoing coronavirus pandemic has further amplified systemic issues in producing countries, when fragile supplier agreements left manufacturers with cancelled or

53、ders and terminated contracts and lacking social safety nets led to unpaid wages for workers. While Western markets recover, for producing countries recovery is slow with many still feeling the negative effects ensued by the pandemic. Furthermore, there is a high degree of uncertainty regarding geop

54、olitical developments. As of May 2022, the war in Ukraine is not only causing a devastating humanitarian crisis, but it is also causing irreversible damage to the regional as well as the global environment.4 For industries, not just limited to the garment industry, these impacts as well as ensued ri

55、se of commodity prices and disruption to demand and supply chains will likely present uncertain economic conditions for years to come.p.5Contents / Introduction / Next chapterDespite these challenges, the fashion industry is advancing towards a more sustainable, more inclusive, and more resilient fu

56、ture. Fashion companies are setting increasingly ambitious targets and aligning their agendas for 2030, partly driven by COP26 that raised the bar on emissions targets. Moreover, the growing adoption of the International Accord for Health and Safety in the Garment and Textile Industry and the recent

57、 introduction of due diligence laws at the brand level have prompted substantial social advances. Recognising that its not only the right thing to do, but also a potential source of value creation and improved resilience, more and more companies set out to integrate sustainability into their busines

58、s models. Investors are also increasingly considering ESG criteria.While these advances are commendable, systemic issues remain and progress is too slow. The use of conventional virgin resources and emissions must be significantly reduced, and systems must be established to pay a living wage to all

59、garment workers. The efforts required to make this happen exceed the power of any individual agent or company. Fashion stakeholders must continue this key work towards a new pre-competitive and cooperative approach, focused on demonstrable change at all stages of the value cycle. Navigating the comp

60、lexities of social and environmental concerns, however, can be challenging. Therefore, there is a clear need for guidance on which issues the industry must prioritise and how it should act to achieve tangible impact fast. With this report, we aspire to fill this gap and create an aligned resource fo

61、r the industry. We bring together expert insights from multiple organisations with different areas of specialisation, consolidate existing knowledge, reduce complexity, and provide guidance for fashion leaders on how to reach a net positive industry by 2050. This report presents clear actions, targe

62、ts, proven best practices, data insights, and solutions to promote progress regarding the five sustainability priorities of the Fashion CEO Agenda: Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Resource Stewardship, Smart Materials Choices and Circular Systems. This publication also

63、marks the beginning of our partnership with technology platform Higg to establish a measurement baseline, and improve the availability, reliability, and consistency of data to measure change.Going forward, we aim for the Monitor to become an annual gauge of the fashion industry, presenting insights,

64、 impact data, monitoring industry progress, and identifying critical actions required in line with an industry-aligned route of travel. We hope that this report will help to mobilise fashion leaders, measure change, and accelerate the progression to a net positive fashion industry.p.6Contents / Intr

65、oduction / Next chapterRespectful and Secure Work Environmentsp.7Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterThe Social & Labor Convergence Program (SLCP) is a multi-stakeholder initiative with the mission to implement a converged assessment framework that will eliminate audit f

66、atigue and support stakeholders efforts to improve working conditions in global supply chains. The Converged Assessment Framework increases transparency in supply chains, reduces the need for social audits, and ultimately enables users to redeploy resources into improving working conditions.I would

67、urge brands to drop their proprietary social audits in favor of converged tools. This action in itself is a better purchasing practice, and it will also unlock savings throughout their supply chain that can be redirected to more useful activity to improve conditions.Janet Mensink, Executive Director

68、, Social & Labor Convergence Program Website Fashion Revolution The Industry We Want ACT Higg Better Work Fair Labor Association Fair Wear Foundation Policy Hub Impact PartnerOther contributors to this chapter“The Social & Labor Convergence ProgramThe global garment industry employs an estimated 70

69、million people throughout its value chain.5 They are the backbone of the industry. Fashion has the potential to drive positive social and economic development for these people, their families, and their communities by upholding human rights, creating secure working conditions, paying fair wages, and

70、 promoting wellbeing.6While these goals are inherently valuable and should be pursued for their own sake, they can also bring numerous benefits for fashion companies, such as higher productivity, employee retention and value chain resilience.7 Despite the importance of respectful and secure work env

71、ironments and potential business benefits, human rights abuses still exist throughout the fashion value chain. While the industry has made some progress to address areas such as low wages, many workers in the fashion value chain do not receive a living wage or fair compensation and continue to live

72、in poverty. 8 Additional concerns include exposure to dangerous working conditions, poor occupational safety, insufficient health standards, long working hours, and precarious contractual arrangements. Marginalised and disenfranchised groups, such as informal workers, migrant workers, and women are

73、disproportionately affected by these and similar issues.9 Forged alliances between fashion brands and NGOs increasingly play an important role in accelerating work towards worker protections and the improvement of working conditions. The coronavirus pandemic further aggravated the situation of fashi

74、on workers and caused many decision makers to backslide on human rights.10 Specifically, the cancellation of orders by fashion brands during the pandemic has placed an immense burden on their suppliers, leaving many unable to pay workers and in some cases forced to close.11 While the markets in high

75、ly developed countries are recovering, the negative impact of the pandemic persists in many producing countries. In effect, the socio-economic gap between consuming and producing countries, which had been narrowing before the pandemic, has widened again.12 Moreover, the pandemics impairment on data

76、p.8Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapter Go to section Go to section Go to section Go to sectioncollection and reporting regarding the impact on worker rights, leaves the extent of this reality undisclosed. 13 Generally, targets and measures geared at promoting human righ

77、ts of workers lag behind efforts to protect the natural environment.14Going forward, fashion brands must continue to collaborate with their manufacturing partners and participate in convening with an alliance of actors to improve the work environments for people employed throughout the fashion value

78、 cycle. To achieve respectful and secure work environments for all workers, action is required across four key areas:Implementation of responsible purchasing practices and increased transparency of working conditions to promote workplace health and safety. Driving equality and empowerment both at th

79、e corporate level and throughout the fashion value cycle, e.g., by sanctioning discrimination, addressing (gender) wage gaps, and ensuring equal access to training opportunities.Improving the terms of employment by building stronger systems for the protection and representation of garment workers; e

80、specially more vulnerable groups at risk of unauthorised subcontracting and forced labour.Developing better social protection of workers, supported by collective bargaining agreements, to promote the long-term resilience of the industry.While it is clear that brands cannot affect systemic change alo

81、ne, their purchasing practices play a key role in bringing about decent, dignified, and safe working environments across their global value chains. Increasingly, investors and regulators demand more transparency about human rights, and brands are well advised to ready themselves and their partners f

82、or an era of human-centred value creation.15 Success will require all garment industry actors to work together - governments, financial institutions, manufacturers, brands, retailers, trade unions, and NGOs.161234p.9Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterIncreasing transpar

83、ency regarding working conditions and changing purchasing practices will promote workplace health and safetyWorking conditions vary significantly across garment suppliers. Sourcing and purchasing practices of many brands are built on short lead times and the need for low cost to compete for end user

84、s demand for affordable clothing, leaving suppliers in a race to the bottom.17 This race drives poor working conditions and long working hours, including forced overtime, 18 instances of violence, harassment, and verbal abuse.19 Despite existing agreements on workplace safety such as the Internation

85、al Accord,20 many workers are still exposed to hazardous chemicals and other dangers such as factory fires.21 Many suppliers put pressure on their employees which not only exposes workers to high risks of fatigue, occupational injuries, verbal and other health issues, it can also have a negative eff

86、ect on productivity.22 Ultimately, nobody wins in the race to the bottom. Transparent disclosure on labour and human rights is an essential foundation to achieving systemic change in the industry enabling better identification of risks and abuses in the fashion value chain. The Fashion Transparency

87、Index reports that 47 per cent of brands reviewed currently gather and disclose information about their first-tier production facilities. This percentage has been increasing since 2019 alongside observed increased disclosure of processing facilities and raw material suppliers. 23 Industry leaders su

88、ch as Nike and H&M Group have also adopted supplier code of conducts and accompanying leadership and purchasing standards which commit to long-term partnership with suppliers on improving manufacturing conditions and minimising negative impacts on workers. As public awareness for work safety grows,

89、brands are increasing transparency throughout their supply chains to mitigate reputational risk and support NGOs in identifying where improvements are needed. Watchdogs and regulators increasingly expect brands and their 1p.10Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterHow to ta

90、ke action PDF PDF PDF PDF PDF WEB WEB WEBsuppliers to conduct audits at factories.24 While audits can help to promote decent working conditions, the proliferation of such audits and the lack of consistent standards has given rise to duplicative efforts and widespread audit fatigue.25 Moreover, some

91、audits fail to identify certain risks in cases where poor practices are masked or denied and resulting travel restrictions during the pandemic also ensued fewer in-person audits. In effect, the database is currently less complete, and potentially less reliable, than it was before the pandemic. Multi

92、-stakeholder initiative, Social & Labor Convergence Program (SLCP) has successfully engaged industry actors to adopt a common assessment framework in order to reduce audit burden on suppliers and prompted redeployment of resources for improving working conditions. The framework also provides the ind

93、ustry with a common tool for high quality comparable data collection on working conditions. See SLCPs case studyBrands and manufacturers must continue to make strides in shifting mindsets to incentivise better working conditions and mitigate risk throughout the value cycle. Specific examples of comm

94、endable practices to promote workplace health and safety include:Responsible Purchasing Practices Adopt industry recognised purchasing practices. Disclose targets and accompanying monitoring and accountability systems to measure progress on these practices.Principles of Fair Labor & Responsible Sour

95、cing Fair Labor Global Purchasing Practices CommitmentsACTAccountability and Monitoring SystemACTBrand Performance Check GuideFair Wear FoundationWhite Paper on the Definition and Application of Commercial ComplianceSustainable Terms of Trade InitiativeValue Chain TransparencyDisclose tier one and t

96、wo facilities in line with the Transparency Pledge requirements. This provides workers with the possibility to assert their rights and hold brands accountable, enable brands and NGOs to better identify and address labour rights risks and abuses in supply chains and provide consumers with information

97、 about where their clothes were made.The Apparel and Footwear Supply Chain Transparency Pledge Open Apparel RegistryFashion Transparency Index 2021 Fashion Revolutionp.11Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapter PDF PDF WEB PDF WEBCase Study Social & Labor Convergence Program

98、 Collective action to drive audit reductionOn a mission to eliminate audit fatigue and sup-port industry efforts to improve working conditions, the Social & Labor Convergence Program (SLCP) provides a system solution to the existing misalign-ment of social auditing through a Converged As-sessment Fr

99、amework (CAF). To date, over 55 brands, retailers and organisations have now switched from their own propriety social audits to accepting SLCP verified assessments resulting in significant capital unlock for redeployment into workplace improvement programmes. Moreover, SLCPs CAF enables credible and

100、 actionable data collection providing adopters with a useful baseline to support supplier improvements and increase accountability.Driving social converged assessments in their supply chain; fashion retailer and leading SLCP signatory; C&A, has publicly committed to replace 100% of its proprietary a

101、udits with SLCP verified audits by the end of 2022. C&A have has developed a staged approach for scaling SLCP in order to effectively deliver supplier engagement activities across all facilities in sourcing countries where SLCP is available. Switching to SLCPs CAF has also enabled C&A to redeploy th

102、eir corporate sustainability teams efforts entirely towards supplier development and capability building. Learn more hereConverged AuditingTo mitigate auditing fatigue and unlock resources for impact-oriented programmes, brands should commit to converged assessments and seek to implement solutions.

103、Solutions should be supported by standards for comparable data sets on social conditions,26 and disclose audit results publicly to increase transparency and encourage ethical sourcing.Converged Assessment FrameworkSLCPResponsible Termination and Exit PoliciesTerms of order termination and supplier e

104、xits must be fairly, and clearly communicated within supplier contracts from the outset and given appropriate escalation periods in order to alleviate impact on suppliers and their workers.Responsible Exit Policy and Checklist ACTResponsible Exit Strategy GuidelinesFair Wear FoundationEqual ConductC

105、omplement supplier codes of conduct27 with buyer codes of conduct that require brands to uphold fair contract terms supporting sustainability and human wellbeing.Code Leadership Standards NikeWhite Paper on the Definition and Application of Commercial Compliance Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative

106、p.12Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterStrengthening the rights of women, racial minorities, and other marginalised groups will help create a more inclusive and equitable fashion industryThe fashion industry is primarily female. Nearly three quarters of all garment work

107、ers around the world are women,28 and women control spending in most categories.29 At the same time, the industry is plagued by power imbalances and systemic inequality, and these issues are not limited to gender. Most of the decision makers are white, but many workers are people of colour. Managers

108、 and supervisors are often members of the elite, while workers are members of marginalised groups. Women, non-binary individuals, people of colour, and other marginalised groups are frequently exposed to discrimination, harassment, and verbal or physical abuse.30 Also, members of marginalised groups

109、 are often subject to cultural stereotyping and are rarely considered or hired for senior positions. Moreover, many women are disproportionately affected by gender-based violence, sexual harassment, and verbal or physical abuse in the workplace.31 Increased allegations during the pandemic were also

110、observed of pregnant workers subject to discrimination, with some observers noting that pregnant workers were dismissed or denied maternity pay.32 Awareness for these issues is growing, partly prompted by global social movements, such as Who Made My Clothes and Black Lives Matter and some steps have

111、 been taken to improve the situation of marginalised groups in the fashion industry. Though brands have been vocal on these issues, few have published evidence on how they are acting on the promotion of racial equality.33 Examples of initiatives geared at improving the situation of women include the

112、 HERproject initiated by BSR and the Better Work Programme. Some companies are also making efforts to diversify representation in advertising campaigns and safeguard models heath, such as the Model Charter launched by Kering and LVHM and The Models Health Pledge with a reporting point for misconduct

113、. 2p.13Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterHow to take actionOrganisations are increasingly promoting diversity within their teams at the HQ level, but similar interventions further down in the corporate hierarchy and throughout the value chain are often lacking.34 Curre

114、nt efforts to ensure appropriate worker representation and combat inequality through trade unions and elected worker committees remain inadequate - both at the corporate and at the fashion value chain level.35 Moreover, sensitivity around the topic has resulted in a lack of data that could be used t

115、o assess the status quo and prompt necessary action to tackle endemic inequality effectively; specifically data regarding race, ethnicity36, and religion. As well, some existing initiatives and efforts have been criticised as superficial or token gestures (“woke-washing”37).38 Data regarding inciden

116、ts of discrimination, harassment, violence, and other forms of abuse is also scarce.39Fashion brands are uniquely positioned to empower women, racial minorities, and other marginalised groups to improve their health, advance their careers, provide for their families or communities, and gain greater

117、control over their futures.40 The industry should take the following steps to build a more inclusive, more equitable fashion industry:Inclusive EmploymentActively support equal opportunities both at the corporate level and throughout the fashion value cycle in areas of hiring, promotion, wage increa

118、ses, and access to training regardless of gender, ethnicity, or religious affiliations supported by non-discrimination policies.Discrimination (Employment and Occupation) Convention 111 ILO Gender Equity Self-Diagnostic Tool ICRW WEB WEBp.14Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next c

119、hapter WEB PDF WEB PDFViolence and Harassment Prevention To prevent, address and work to abolish violence and harassment, work with suppliers and unions to raise awareness for these issues and conduct risk assessments to identify areas in which improvements are needed. Develop a workplan, supported

120、by dedicated funds, to address issues, e.g., by putting in place mechanisms to handle grievances and complaints and establishing monitoring systems that help track improvements.41 Adopt strict zero-tolerance policies on gender-based violence, aided by strict measures to prevent and penalise sexual h

121、arassment.Violence and Harassment Convention 190 ILOApproach to Addressing Violence and Harassment in the World of Work: Guidance for Suppliers Fair Wear FoundationStandardised Guidance for Addressing Violence & Harassment in the Garment Industry Care International, Better Work Factories Cambodia Ad

122、dressing Gender-Based Violence and Harassment (GBVH) in the Manufacturing Sector IFC WEB WEBDiversity Disclosure Annually disclose diversity data - publishing the breakdown of job roles by gender, colour, and nationality in direct operations and tier 1-2 facilities to foster greater transparency and

123、 warrant accountability.Open Apparel RegistryFashion Transparency Index 2021 Fashion RevolutionCase Study EmpowerWork A one stop industry approach to womens empowerment and gender equality in global supply chainsOn a mission to empower women workers and embed gender equity across fashions supply cha

124、in, EmpowerWork brings together the worlds four largest womens empowerment workplace initiatives; BSRs HERproject, CARE International, Gap Inc.s P.A.C.E. Program and ILO-IFC Better Work. Collectively these programs have reached over 5 million workers across over 20 countries with womens empowerment

125、and gender equality workplace trainings. Today, it is estimated that over 40 million women work in fashion supply chains. EmpowerWork activities focus on three interlocking pillars of work: capacity building, market transformation and influencing for structural change. In 2019 EmpowerWork Founding M

126、embers and the International Center for Research on Women joined forces to develop the Worker Training Toolkit for Womens Empowerment. The open-source toolkit serves the industry with best practice training curricula and practitioners guides for implementing worker trainings. EmpowerWork is currentl

127、y finalizing setting up an entity that will bring all activities under one platform for industry wide action on womens empowerment and gender equality across supply chains. Building on proven methods, long-standing networks, and the ability to operate at scale, EmpowerWork aims to improve the lives

128、of 20 million workers over the next decade. Learn more here To advance gender equality in global fashion supply chains requires sustained and collective industry-wide action. The COVID pandemic has clearly demonstrated the urgency to move forward to not let gender equality slide backwards the time f

129、or action is now. Christine Svarerinterim Executive Director, EmpowerWorkp.15Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterBrands and manufacturers should take increasing responsibility for garment workers employed by subcontractors to promote better terms of employment Often fash

130、ion brands and many suppliers are separated by multiple organisational or legal layers from the people who do the work that drives the value creation of the industry. While this system brings flexibility for brands and their immediate suppliers, it can also result in precarious and, in some cases, e

131、xploitative work arrangements for farmers, weavers, dyers, seamstresses, and other garment workers.42 This in turn increases risk of the occurrence of gross human rights violations including forced labour, bonded labour,43 and human trafficking which still persists in the global fashion value chain

132、today. Many brands taking strides to address these issues are doing so in partnership with a growing number of NGOs providing the industry with trusted guidance and resources to further necessary action. Key actors include the Fair Labor Association and ACT.Minorities and marginalised groups such as

133、 women, migrant workers, children, adolescents, and workers residing in free trade zones working in informalised employment such as unauthorised subcontracting, are at particularly high risk of exploitation, and they often work under conditions that may constitute forced labour or modern slavery.44

134、In some cases, these workers are not allowed to leave their places of work for extended periods of time, and their living conditions are often degrading or inhumane, with poor access to water, sanitation and hygiene. Also, these workers often suffer from inconsistent wage payments.45 Subcontracted w

135、ork, particularly that of homeworkers, often comes with even worse conditions, low job security, and a lack of legal and social protection,46 largely out of sight of auditors.47 Typically, workers move from one short-term, temporary, insecure, or informal contract to the next.48 Forms of corruption,

136、 such as bribery and extortion, are often closely linked to such systemic weaknesses.Current purchasing practices - often with low buying prices combined with short lead times - put so much pressure on suppliers and manufacturers that subcontracting (and the improper terms of employment that often c

137、ome with it) can be a de-facto necessity for these companies to stay afloat. Suppliers who hire workers through contractors cut costs by avoiding contributions to social security and pensions that would otherwise be legally required;49 conduct which current social auditing practices often fail to de

138、tect.503p.16Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterHow to take actionGoing forward, brands and their suppliers must adopt a firm stance and better standards for the terms of employment, ensuring workers throughout the fashion value chain are employed on formal contracts whi

139、ch entitle them to necessary protections, representation, and fair compensation. Specific steps they should take include:Safeguard Worker Rights Employ a meaningful commitment to safeguard the rights of workers, in particular with regard to the risk of forced labour, supported by a strict code of co

140、nduct with zero tolerance for forced labour, including prison labour and bonded labour.51 Work with unions and similar organisations to detect unauthorised work. Prioritise preventative and mitigative measures and ensure for robust systems of remediation - disengagement should be the last resort.52F

141、LA Workplace Code of Conduct and Compliance Benchmarks Fair LaborForced Labour Convention 29ILO Supply Chain Due Diligence Policies to Watch Higg CUMULUS Forced Labor ScreenTMVerit PDF WEB WEB WEB WEB PDF WEB WEB PDF WEB WEB WEBFair Working Hours Ensure that decent working hours, in line with ILO co

142、nventions, are respected. Specifically, overtime should be voluntary, not exceed 12 hours per week, and be compensated for appropriately.53 Better cooperative order planning and demand forecasting with value chain partners will help to ensure suppliers can keep their promises to brands while complyi

143、ng with decent working hours and overtime conventions.54 To reduce workers dependence on excessive overtime, work towards the payment of living wages for regular working hours.55 See Better Wage Systems Fair Working Hours Guide Fair Wear FoundationFLA Workplace Code of Conduct and Compliance Benchma

144、rks Fair LaborHours of Work (Industry) Convention 1919 (No.1) ILOFreedom of AssociationDisclose action plans to proactively promote freedom of association within tiers 1 and 2 suppliers. Disclose to what extent workers at tiers 1 and 2 suppliers have access to freedom of association, on the basis of

145、 ILO conventions 87 paying particular focus on marginalised and disenfranchised groups, such as informal workers. Freedom of Association and Protection of the Right to Organise Convention 87 ILOFLA Workplace Code of Conduct and Compliance Benchmarks Fair LaborApproach to Freedom of Association ACTDi

146、spute Resolution and RemediationWork with suppliers to ensure access to credible and effective dispute resolution mechanisms (in line with OECD and UN GP) when rights of freedom of association and collective bargaining are violated e.g., Corrective Action Plans (CAPs) or stop-work notices, that take

147、 effect when issues are found in supplier facilities. The outcome of such remediation processes should be publicly disclosed.Third Party Complaint Procedure Fair LaborDue Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment Sector OECD p.17Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environment

148、s / Next chapter“ Fashion has the potential to drive positive social and economic development for garment workers, their families, and their communities by upholding human rights, creating secure working conditions, paying fair wages, and promoting wellbeing p.18Contents / Respectful and Secure Work

149、 Environments / Next chapterComplementing supplier codes of conduct with buyer commitments will help establish a higher standard of social protection throughout the value chainThe coronavirus pandemic has not only exposed pre-existing social issues in the fashion industry, it has also damaged many r

150、elationships between value chain partners and further weakened social protection systems. 56 Workers are entitled to social protection giving access to health and sickness benefits, unemployment insurance, employment injury insurance, and medical insurance.57 Specifically, the crisis has revealed th

151、e high vulnerability of workers in countries and regions that have weak systems for the protection of the health and the social welfare of workers, their families, and their communities. 58 During the pandemic, there was reportedly an increase in the number of workers being denied paid sick leave. A

152、lso, observers note that workers were not always properly informed about the fact that they were entitled to paid sick leave in the first place. Increases in other violations of health and safety regulations were also reported.59 Industry leaders who demonstrated best practices were quick to respond

153、 to the pandemic providing monetary support and protective equipment as well as engaging in transparent communications and closer collaboration with their supply base.As the industry enters a phase of recovery, there is an urgent need for fast, tripartite action between industry, governments, and ci

154、vil society actors in areas of social protections, living wage and fair compensation to strengthen safety nets and protection systems for workers across the fashion value chain. Although some brands and retailers are making strides to disclose information about policies and commitments regarding hum

155、an rights, large parts of the industry remain opaque as far as efforts to improve the social protection of workers are concerned.60 Moreover, in some garment producing countries, the freedom of association is curtailed by restrictive laws and union-busting actions61 leaving many workers unable to fo

156、rm or join unions that could negotiate social protection on their behalf. Disenfranchised and marginalised groups, such as women and migrant workers, are generally less likely to be covered by collective bargaining agreements.4p.19Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterHow

157、to take actionGoing forward, brands should lead the way to improve the social protection of workers, increase job security, and improve the resilience of the industry to crisis and disruption. Available tools to support action include:Support Social Protection SystemsWork to support improvements in

158、workers social protection (including income security and health protections), through innovative contributions to national social protection floors in cooperation with suppliers and governments, i.e., public infrastructure for social services.Social Protection Floors Recommendation 202 ILOSocial Sec

159、urity (Minimum Standards) Convention 102 ILO Lessons of a pandemic: what is needed to support garment workers and strengthen social protection systems OECD WEB WEB WEB PDF WEB WEB PDF WEBCollective BargainingEnable the implementation of the right to freedom of association62 and promote an environmen

160、t in which collective bargaining agreements determine fair compensation as well as worker benefits and protections deemed necessary. Refer to section 3: Freedom of AssociationCollective Bargaining at Industry Level ACTRight to Organise and Collective Bargaining Convention 98 ILO Collective Bargainin

161、g Convention 154 ILOSocial Security ContributionsEnable labour costing systems that adequately reflect social security contributions, and that all labour costs are ring-fenced during price negotiations. See Better Wage SystemsACT Labour Costing Protocol ACTLabour Minute Costing Calculators Fair Wear

162、 FoundationCase Study ASOS: Collaboration to Launch Migrant Resource CentreOn a mission to eradicate modern slavery amongst migrant workers in garment manufacturing, online retailer; ASOS, is working together with key stake-holders in Mauritius to ensure the rights of migrant workers are protected.I

163、n 2019, ASOS and IndustriALL Global Union supported the establishment of the Migrant Resource Centre (MRC) in Mauritius alongside collaborators Anti-Slavery International, Confdration des Tra-vailleurs des Secteurs Publique et Priv and local trade unions. Between April 2020 and Decem-ber 2021, a tot

164、al of 118 grievances were logged by the MRC and over half of cases logged have been closed (51%) and some partially closed (9%). The centre, which formally opened this year, sup-ports migrant workers individually and collective-ly by providing information and advice, facilitating remedy and providin

165、g a safe space to interact freely and openly with each other. To further address risk of exploitation, an independent channel has been established for migrant workers to report work-place violations that may otherwise go unresolved. Beyond grievance resolution, the MRC has also helped to increase kn

166、owledge among migrant work-ers on their rights through monthly awareness rais-ing sessions.Learn more in ASOS latest Modern Slavery State-ment here. Learn more here Since the Migrant Resource Centre was established over two years ago, it has helped migrant workers on the ground in Mauritius better u

167、nderstand and realise their fundamental human rights and has been instrumental in directly resolving grievances and holding employers to account. Simon Platts Commercial ESG and Sustainability Director, ASOSPhoto: ASOSp.20Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterMeasuring Ind

168、ustry ProgressCurrently, brands and retailers use the Sustainable Apparel Coalitions Higg BRM to report on impacts such as wages, benefits, health and safety, and protection from discrimination. According to available data, most of the brands and retailers completing the BRM reported having a social

169、 or human rights risk assessment in place. The majority of brands indicate that they are committed to social and human rights improvements. Most report that their company has a safe and effective grievance or complaints mechanism for workers to submit concerns on social and human rights risks. Most

170、also indicate that their company has a way to confirm that suppliers at each tier of the value chain identify, manage, and meet compliance requirements in accordance with local regulations and international norms. Does your company have a social/human rights risk assessment?Fig.1 - Higg Brand & Reta

171、il Module - Safe and Respectful Work Environments Has your company committed to social/human rights improvements as a result of its risk assessment process?Does your company have a safe, effective way or grievance mechanism for those impacted by social/human rights risks to submit complaints and con

172、cerns?Does your company have a means to confirm that suppliers at each tier of its value chain identify, manage and meet compliance with all applicable local regulations and/or international norms?75%82%75%82%75%91%75%90%YesYesYesYesNoNoNoNop.21Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Ne

173、xt chapterFig.2 - The Industry We Want / Purchasing Practice Metric-100-50500Uses data gathered by the BBIP Better Buying Institutes Partnership Index Survey10039The Fair Labor Association (FLA) annually measures its companies on uptake of purchasing practices to support workers and address negative

174、 impacts on working conditions and the establishment of rigorous systems for assessing practices across their facilities through FLAs accreditation evaluations. By the end of 2020, 72% of all FLA companies had adopted responsible purchasing practices policies and procedures and 98% had successfully

175、established robust monitoring systems to help identify, analyse, and remediate violations. Those that have achieved FLA accreditation must have these programmes in place and FLA reports on these systems in its public company accreditation reports. In March 2022, multi stakeholder initiative The Indu

176、stry We Want presented a purchasing practises metric score of 39 points on a scale from -100 to +100. Insights were captured from 500 suppliers who rated their brand buyers purchasing practices. Out of the 500 suppliers surveyed, 56% of buyers behaviours were considered those of a true partner, 28%

177、were the behaviours of a collaborator and 17% of behaviours were the behaviours of a detractor. Ethical Trading Initiative members scored 47 points and Fair Wear Foundation members scored 67 points on the same rating of purchasing practices. Consistent evaluation of how global fashion brands are imp

178、lementing responsible purchasing practices, driving equality and empowerment, improving the terms of employment, and developing better social protection of workers and increasing the number of workers or facilities that are protected, supports industry improvement and better social protection for wo

179、rkers across the value chain. In future reports, we seek to explore whether a reduction in excessive social audits is opening funding to enable brands and manufacturers to take action to improve wage systems and practices. We will examine which approaches are working effectively and what steps brand

180、s can take to accelerate progress. Global Fashion Agenda and Higg aim to measure and present the fashion industrys progress towards Respectful and Secure Work Environments annually in the GFA Monitor. Working together, we are establishing a reporting framework to identify data points, converge exist

181、ing approaches, and capture insights from report contributors.We invite other organisations to contribute to this work as we leverage existing initiatives and capture new insights to establish baselines and present industry progress in years to come. Learn more about our industry engagement process

182、here.p.22Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterPolicyImprovements in Respectful and Secure Work Environments are expected to be impacted by two important ongoing policy initiatives. The first one is the EUs long-awaited legislative proposal for a Directive on corporate sus

183、tainability due diligence. It was published by the European Commission on 23 February 2022 with the general aim of motivating companies to inspect their supply chains for human rights and environmental breaches. The textiles sector has been included among those on which the proposed Directive will h

184、ave a high impact. Important to note that its Annex provides a list of violations of human rights and environmental obligations that include working conditions, and which will then be used to determine the adverse impact on human rights and environment as part of the due diligence. The Directive wou

185、ld enter into force as of 2025-2026 following the final adoption by the EU co-legislators and the transposition by the Member States into their national systems. The second initiative impacting this priority is the New Yorks Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act introduced in October

186、2021. If adopted with its current suggested provisions (under consideration in the New York State Assembly end April 2022), it would include an obligation of Social and Environmental Due Diligence Disclosure to footwear companies with more than 100 million USD in revenue doing business in New York.

187、p.23Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterAlliances to promote respectful and secure working environments for garment workers worldwideImproving the working conditions for the millions of people employed by the fashion industry is a daunting job, but no effort must be spar

188、ed to move the needle in this important area. Too much is at stake for individuals and their daily lives, as well as for the industry and its long-term resilience. As fashion leaders work to overcome the pandemic, they should seek to develop new systems that promote respectful and secure working env

189、ironments and move from stand-alone approaches to collective action. Enabling these systems will require value chain partners to graduate from purely transactional relationships to equal and trust-based partnerships with cognisance of how relationships will further evolve as circular systems are ado

190、pted more broadly.Moreover, further alliances for better work must be formed and strengthened, involving governments, unions, and NGOs. NGOs can not only help educate decision makers and raise awareness among stakeholders by disseminating knowledge, they can also drive industry action through the im

191、plementation of proven impact programmes63 such as the Better Work Programme and the HERproject. Alliances for better work in the fashion industry will not only improve the situation of workers, they will also increase the resilience of the industry to future crises and disruption. p.24Contents / Re

192、spectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterCode of Conduct A detailed set of principles and practices to which one organisation holds another accountable as they interact. Brands often have detailed “Supplier Codes of Conduct” for their manufacturing partners and are increasingly adopting “

193、Buyer Codes of Conduct” to create more equal business interactions and better protect manufacturers rights.GlossaryConverged AuditsA method wherein multiple organisations adopt the same sustainability assessment framework, so the organisation under review does not need to complete multiple and often

194、times duplicative audits; results become comparable across the industry and resources can be redirected to improvement. Due Diligence An ongoing risk management process that a reasonable and prudent company needs to follow in order to identify, prevent, mitigate and account for how it addresses its

195、adverse human rights impacts. (UNGP)Equal Partnerships Trust-based, respectful, and mutually beneficial relations formed with value chain actors that encourage joint solutions, innovation, and shared financial incentives. Forced LabourAll work or service which is exacted from any person under the th

196、reat of a penalty and for which the person has not offered himself or herself voluntarily. (ILO)Freedom of AssociationWorker right to organise and form employers and workers organisations. Freedom of Association is the prerequisite for collective bargaining. (ILO)Grievance Mechanisms A routinised pr

197、ocess through which grievances concerning work-related human rights abuses can be raised and remedy can be sought. (UNGP)Vulnerable Groups Marginalised and disenfranchised societal groups that lack access to rights, resources, and opportunities. In the garment industry, this can include migrant work

198、ers, sub-contracted home workers, racial, ethnic, national, and religious minorities, members of the LGBTQ+ community, and women.Purchasing Practices The way in which international retailers and brands interact and do business with their supplier(s). They encompass strategic planning, sourcing, deve

199、lopment, purchasing and the underlying behaviours, values and principles which impact workers. (ACT)132458697Contents / Respectful and Secure Work Environments / Next chapterBetter WageSystemsp.26Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterThe current wages in most garment producing countries are f

200、ar below64 what workers need to reach a decent standard of living (“living wage”65), a universally recognised human right.66 While many brands are making strides to promote fair wages throughout their value chains, progress to date remains slow in many areas.One of the structural barriers to progres

201、s is the fact that fashion brands usually do not directly control the wages of workers but depend on their supply chain partners to effect change. Also, there is a certain reluctance to share data about wages.67 Minimum wage mechanisms68 have proven to be insufficient in raising wages to a living wa

202、ge or fair compensation standard.69 The issue must be addressed by the industry-wide implementation of wages that meet the basic needs of workers. Although most fashion brands do not pay the wages of production workers directly, they can make a difference by working with their partners to promote fa

203、ir compensation and better wage systems underpinned by fair purchasing practices that will help end poverty for millions of garment workers globally.70 To enable better wage systems, wages and other benefits should be negotiated between trade unions and employers all along the fashion value chain, r

204、eviewed annually and adapted if needed (to be at least be in line with inflation adjustments and productivity improvements). At the start of the coronavirus pandemic, brand and retailer cancelled orders equalled in the magnitude of 40 billion USD. Many suppliers were unable to furlough their workers

205、, pay wages, or provide severance pay.71 As a result, workers have shouldered the heaviest economic burden of the crisis with 88 per cent of workers having reported a loss of income because of the pandemic, leaving them unable to feed their families and pushing many of them into debt.72 While govern

206、ments across the world have devised numerous subsidies and relief packages for brands at corporate level, efforts to sustain the wages of workers in the value chain are limited, and even dedicated funds have not always reached those most in need of support.73Fair Labor Association (FLA) promotes hum

207、an rights at work. FLA is an international network of companies, universities, and civil society organisations collaborating to ensure the people working at the worlds factories and farms are paid fairly and their health, safety, and well-being are protected. FLAs mission is to create better workpla

208、ces through innovative solutions to the most complex labour rights issues.Fair Labor Associations accountability program supports member companies as they address systemic labor issues in their supply chains and we are seeing the results, especially in living wages. I encourage the fashion industry

209、to join us in promoting responsible business practices that improve conditions for workersSharon Waxman President & CEO, Fair Labor Association Website Fashion Revolution Global Living Wage Coalition ACT Better Work Fair Wear FoundationImpact PartnerOther contributors to this chapter“Fair Labor Asso

210、ciation The Industry We Want Policy Hub Higg p.27Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterFashion brands alone will not be able to bring about better wage systems throughout the industry. Rather, they must act in lockstep with retailers, suppliers, trade unions, governments, and NGOs.74 The impl

211、ementation of better wage systems requires change in four areas: The implementation of better wage systems must be planned and executed in a way that reflects the needs of all stakeholders workers and local communities, investors, brands, and suppliers. Better wage systems will not only help to secu

212、re and improve the livelihoods of workers, they also bring far-reaching benefits for brands and their shareholders: reduced business risk, more motivated workers, improved employee loyalty, and lower absence rates. More broadly, better wage systems will also aid equitable global economic development

213、 and help reduce the gap between developed and developing countries.77 Go to section Go to section Go to section Go to section1234Adopting more responsible purchasing practices that reflect direct and indirect labour costs in supplier payments and support long-term partnerships with manufacturers.En

214、abling the implementation of the right to freedom of association75 and promoting an environment in which collective bargaining agreements help ensure reasonable wage growth. Promoting wage parity by putting mechanisms in place to enable all workers to partake in wages and benefits that have been neg

215、otiated, regardless of gender, race, and nationality.Promoting wage protection and security, e.g., by adopting digital wage payments (wire transfers) and implementing responsible order exit76 processes and policies.p.28Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterPurchasing practices that reflect th

216、e cost of labour will enable suppliers and their subcontractors to pay workers living wage and fair compensationWhile most brands and retailers do not pay garment workers directly, their purchasing practices78 have a big influence on the wages workers receive from their immediate employers. Currentl

217、y, many purchasing contracts and supplier agreements favour brands at the expense of suppliers, subcontractors, and their employees.79 For example, brands expect suppliers to advance the cost of production and raw materials on credits.80 Consequently, suppliers often have no means to contest order c

218、ancellations by brands, so are frequently stuck with considerable debt. During the pandemic, this power imbalance has left many suppliers unable to pay their workers or driven them into insolvency altogether. A lack of dialogue between brands and their suppliers about foreseeable fluctuations in dem

219、and often puts suppliers under pressure to deliver on last-minute orders and cancellations by brands can be common practice, putting pressure on suppliers and their workers as the weakest links in the value chain. Furthermore, suppliers in some cases face penalties when they fail to fulfil rush orde

220、rs. This kind of conduct further impairs the ability of suppliers to pay a living wage or fair compensation.Although there is little transparency from brands on their overall purchasing practices,81responsible purchasing practices are widely recognised as an essential enabler of fair compensation an

221、d better wage systems. Only 27 per cent of brands reviewed in the Fashion Transparency Index disclose the approach they pursue to achieve the payment of living wages.82 Only two brands and retailers reviewed provided data on orders where labour costs were ring-fenced and only 9 per cent disclosed po

222、licies to pay their suppliers within a maximum period of 60 days.831p.29Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterThe fashion industry must adjust purchasing and production practices in a way that promotes better wage systems and enables all parties to pay a living wage and fair compensation, rem

223、oving pressures in price negotiations that could result in the lowest possible wages being paid. Effective strategies should include:Fair Compensation Blueprint Work with suppliers on wage data analysis and strategy development to inform and publish a blueprint detailing action plans to bring about

224、living wages or fair compensation, starting in tiers 1 and 2. Involve suppliers, trade unions and civil society in engagement and accountability processes to receive feedback on purchasing and production practices improvements to further support the payment of living wages for workers. How to take a

225、ction PDF WEB PDF WEBFLA Fair Compensation Blueprint Fair LaborPrinciples of Fair Labor and Responsible Sourcing and Production Fair LaborPurchasing Practices Accountability and Monitoring Framework ACTThe Five Principles of Responsible Purchasing Practices Better Buying InitiativeCase Study Fair La

226、bor Association x Maxport, New Era, Puma Fair Compensation & Living Wage for AllTo date, 51 global fashion brands have committed to ensuring fair labour practices in their value chains as participating Fair Labor Association (FLA) members. Through the FLAs 2020 Fair Compensation Strategy, apparel an

227、d footwear members are held accountable to improve wages in their supply chains. Supported by FLA living wage tools, brands are able to collect wage data, identify wage gaps, and develop a public commitment and blueprint for action for measurable progress towards a living wage.Committed to upholding

228、 FLAs Principles of Fair Labor and Responsible Sourcing, accredited members, Maxport, New Era, and PUMA, have made significant remediation progress on working hours and compensation practices in factories in China and Vietnam achieving wage increases between 29% and 57% during the regular work week

229、within two to three years. Working hours also decreased and living wage progress was made through strong buyer, supplier, and worker collaboration as well as concrete changes made to payment systems, enabling better production planning, productivity bonuses and cash benefits for workers. To ensure o

230、ngoing progress towards payment of a living wage, Maxport, New Era, and PUMA actively use FLAs Fair Compensation Dashboard to regularly monitor wages against industry recognised living wage benchmarks. Learn more here PDF WEBLabour CostingImplement labour costing systems that ensure purchasing price

231、s reflect direct and indirect labour costs and that labour costs are incorporated as a distinct costing block in price negotiations (“ring-fencing”).84 To support suppliers, establish training programmes on fair labour costing.ACT Labour Costing Protocol ACTLabour Minute Costing Calculators Fair Wea

232、r Foundation WEB PDF WEB WEBFair Terms of PaymentAdopt fair terms of payment in line with agreed timeframes and agreed payment terms. When changes are needed, these should be discussed and mutually agreed upon with suppliers. Establish monitoring mechanisms and accountability metrics to ensure on-ti

233、me payments and compliance with payment terms.Principles of Fair Labor and Responsible Sourcing and Production Fair LaborPurchasing Practices Accountability and Monitoring Framework ACTDevelop a worker-centric view HiggLiving Income Toolkit The Living Income Community of Practicep.30Contents / Bette

234、r Wage Systems / Next chapter2Promoting freedom of association and collective bargaining could enable suppliers to compete on quality and innovation, rather than on price alone Freedom of association is a prerequisite to collective bargaining.85 Collective bargaining helps establish standards that b

235、ecome binding for all workers represented by the bargaining body, it supports living wages and fair compensation that reflect the cost of living in the country or region where workers reside, and it promotes the fair distribution of productivity gains between employers and workers.86 Another benefit

236、 of collective bargaining agreements is the possibility to align employers and employees on a scheme for the differentiation of wages for specific job profiles or skill categories (“wage scales”). Such differentiation helps employers retain qualified and experienced employees, and it also enables th

237、em to create attractive propositions and career paths for new hires.87 Both freedom of association and collective bargaining are considered key components of a better wage system and important enablers of living wages and fair compensation.88Most supplier codes of conduct that are in place today cov

238、er freedom of association and collective bargaining.89Both rights are also fundamental labour rights under the ILOs core labour standards and included in international labour agreements and most national laws. However, cases of wage theft and union busting90 increased during the pandemic. In many ca

239、ses, this meant unionised workers were let go and replaced by non-unionised workers91 to subvert wage floors negotiated by unions. These practices have damaged the trust-based relationships between employers and employees that are crucial to drive productivity, prosperity, quality, innovation, and r

240、esilience for the fashion industry as a whole. p.31Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterDecision makers at brands, retailers, and suppliers should take or support the following measures that are considered conducive to the payment of living wages:Collective Bargaining Agreements Disclose to

241、what extent workers in tier 1 and 2 facilities have access to effective dispute resolution mechanisms and collective bargaining rights in accordance with ILO92 conventions and recommendations. Adopt purchasing practices that promote real wage growth (growth that exceeds inflation and reflects produc

242、tivity gains) through collective bargaining agreements between trade unions and garment worker employers. Require suppliers to make sure trade unions are actively involved in setting wages and defining non-wage benefits.How to take action PDF WEB WEB WEB PDFCollective Bargaining at Industry Level AC

243、TThird Party Complaint Procedure Fair LaborFreedom of Association and Protection of Right to Organise Convention 87 ILOMonitoring MechanismsEstablish reliable wage monitoring mechanisms to track improvements in wages, as well as robust corrective action plans (CAPs) to deal with cases in which emplo

244、yers do not comply with wage agreements.Supplier EducationSupport the implementation of training programmes geared at educating managers and workers about freedom of association and collective bargaining rights.Principles of Fair Labor and Responsible Sourcing and Production Fair LaborPreferred Dest

245、ination of SourcingPrioritise sourcing and investment in regions or countries where employers respect freedom of association and collective bargaining agreements are in place. Collective Bargaining at Industry Level ACT p.32Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapter “ The fashion industry has a r

246、esponsibility to build awareness, empower workers to negotiate through unions, establish equality in the workplace, prevent wage discrimination, and ensure equal pay for equal work p.33Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterEqual pay for equal work The global economy is characterised by wage i

247、nequality. Most commonly, whereby two persons receive different compensation for occupations requiring the same level of skills, responsibility, and risk due to factors that have no effect on their ability to do their job. The fashion industry is no exception. Vulnerable groups such as migrant worke

248、rs, sub-contracted home workers, racial, ethnic, national, and religious minorities, members of the LGBTQ+ community, and women are often disproportionately affected. These groups are often in lower-paid occupations and more precarious work than their peers, with limited access to legal entitlements

249、 and grievance mechanisms to contest wage inequality and wage theft. Furthermore, members of groups that are susceptible to wage inequalities are often not familiar with relevant laws and many of them are also denied freedom of association, see previous sectionAll around the world, on average, women

250、 earn less than men, partly because women have fewer opportunities for paid employment and are more likely than men to work part-time.93 Globally, on average women are paid approximately 20 per cent less than men, however there are wide variations among countries94 and employment types such as those

251、 in informal work.95 Though there is no data to identify if gender pay gaps are larger than, for instance, racial and religious pay gaps, there are insights showing intersectionality of marginalised groups. A person of colour who is female and a migrant is likely to receive the lowest pay, showing m

252、embership of multiple marginalised groups makes workers even more vulnerable to wage inequality.96Asia, a key production region, is among the continents that are most affected by wage discrimination against female garment workers.97 According to an International Labour Organisation report published

253、in 2019, the average raw gender pay gap in the Asian garment, textile, and footwear sector is approximately 18.5 per cent.98 In some countries, such as India and Pakistan, the gender wage gap can exceed 50 per cent.99 Another 2019study on garment factories in Bangladesh showed that men are promoted

254、more frequently than women. As a result, women are often stuck in entry-level positions, with wages that are insufficient to support a decent standard of living.1003p.34Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterHow to take action WEB WEB WEB WEB PDF WEB PDF PDF WEB WEBThe fashion industry has a r

255、esponsibility to build awareness, empower workers to negotiate through unions, establish equality in the workplace, prevent wage discrimination, and ensure equal pay for equal work - both throughout the value cycle and at the corporate level. 105 Specific steps that brands should take to promote wag

256、e parity include:Wage Data CollectionRegularly collect real wage data on pay gaps and annually report measurable progress towards the payment of living wages in tier 1 and 2 facilities. When reporting progress, disclose living wage estimates and labour costing methodologies used.FLA Fair Compensatio

257、n Toolkit Fair LaborLiving Wage Estimates GLWCLiving Wage Dashboard The Industry We Want Supplier AssessmentsIncorporate wage parity as part of supplier assessments and give preference to suppliers providing equal compensation for workers of equal value - regardless of a workers gender, race, religi

258、on, age, disability, nationality, sexual orientation, social group, or ethnic origin.FLA Workplace Code of Conduct and Compliance Benchmarks Fair LaborHigg Facility Social & Labor Module Higg, SACDue Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector OECDEqual Compen

259、sationDevelop a progressive and coherent pay system that ties wages to skills, education, performance, and experience, while ensuring that there is no wage discrimination based on factors that are irrelevant to the ability of workers to do their job, such as gender. To enable workers to contest wage

260、 discrimination, implement and ensure access to complaint mechanisms both at the corporate level and along the value chain.Third Party Complaint Procedure Fair LaborGender pay gaps persist in Asias garment and footwear sector ILOTraining and UpskillingSupport training programmes geared at educating

261、managers, supervisors, and workers about gender equality and wage parity and invest in upskilling opportunities for women and other marginalised groups most susceptible to wage or promotion discrimination.Support Women Across the Global Manufacturing Value Chain HiggGender Equality in the Global Gar

262、ment Industry Better WorkAlthough average pay gaps are well researched and documented, wage parity data about a given brand or workplace is hard to come by. Only 30 per cent of the brands reviewed by the Fashion Revolution Transparency Index disclose gender pay gap data in their own operations.101 T

263、here is also no commonly accepted standard for the measurement of gender pay gaps for workplaces.102 Most existing data on gender wage pay gaps is from high-income countries. Evidence from developing countries is much sparser.103 Gender inequality is not limited to workers in production countries. I

264、t is also prevalent in the corporate headquarters of fashion brands. For example, only 14 per cent of major brands are led by a female executive.104p.35Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterBrands should promote wage protection and security and adopt responsible exit strategies The fashion in

265、dustry has long been characterised by distant relations between brands and their suppliers, rather than by the trust-based relationships that are conducive to fairness and resilience. The coronavirus pandemic has further aggravated this situation and exposed the hardships it brings for garment worke

266、rs. As demand by end users faltered, brands cancelled orders and terminated supplier contracts to cut their losses. The implications for suppliers and workers were dramatic. Many suppliers found themselves unable to pay wages, at least temporarily, and some were forced to shut their factories altoge

267、ther.106 Limited government intervention across garment producing countries, such as financial relief to help suppliers pay for workers wages, forced workers to find other ways to support their families.107 Other, legions of workers suffered from delayed payments and lost or reduced wages, with many

268、 of them losing their jobs. Observations made during the pandemic have shown that factories and brands adhering to standing contracts and transparent pay mechanisms have weathered the pandemic more successfully than their peers. Generally, resilience to disruption has been demonstrated to correlate

269、with trust-based relationships and worker empowerment.4p.36Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterGoing forward, brands should adopt best practices governing supplier contract entry and exit, as well as order placements and cancellations, to improve wage security and grant workers more control

270、 over their financial future. Examples of commendable conduct include:Digital Wage Payments Adopt digital wage payments, aided by computerised payroll systems in order to reduce occurrences of late and incorrect payments and enable workers to better manage their own finances. Such payments bring mul

271、tiple benefits providing greater visibility over cash payments, increased accuracy, and the breakdown of wage payments.How to take action WEB WEB PDF PDF PDF WEBHERfinance BSR HERprojectGlobal Centre on Digital Wages for Decent Work ILOResponsible Exit StrategiesAdopt and publish responsible exit st

272、rategies which seek to avoid or minimise the negative impact of exiting on suppliers and their workers108 granting appropriate notice and phase-out periods which reflect order volumes.Responsible Exit Policy and Checklist ACTResponsible Exit Strategy Guideline Fair Wear FoundationMediation Mechanism

273、sEstablish effective mediation mechanisms to assure the payment of wages, wage subsidies, income replacement, and or severance pay entitlements are honoured. FLA Retrenchment Guidance Fair LaborGrievance mechanisms and remedy Ethical Trade Initiative Worker Awareness TrainingWork with suppliers to d

274、evelop and implement worker awareness training around wage entitlement, security, relevant technology, and procedures for wage adjustments.p.37Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterMeasuring Industry ProgressUsers of the Higg Brand & Retail Module (BRM) are required to gather and track data r

275、elated to wages paid and financial terms for their manufacturers, in addition to other topics. According to available data in the BRM, a majority of brands completing the assessment (58%) report that their company buyers receive training on the cost of production models. Additionally, 64% of brands

276、report that they provide favourable financial terms to their manufacturers. According to Fashion Transparency Index (FTI) data collected in 2021, 84% of brands reviewed include access to freedom of association and collective bargaining in their supplier code of conducts, however only 10% disclose th

277、e number of workers in their supply chain that are covered by collective bargaining agreements. Moreover just 9% of brands disclose the number or percentage of supplier facilities that have independent, democratically elected trade unions. Does your company provide training to its buyers on the cost

278、 of production models?Fig.3 - Higg Brand & Retail Module - Better Wage Systems Fig.4 - Fashion Transparency Index 2021Does your company provide favourable financial terms to its manufacturers?Percentage of brands that include access to freedom of association and collective bargaining is part of supp

279、lier code of conductsPercentage of brands that disclose the number of workers in supply chain covered by collective bargaining agreementPercentage of brands that disclose the number/percentage of manufacturers with independent, democratically elected trade unions 58%64%YesYesNoNo84%10%9%p.38Contents

280、 / Better Wage Systems / Next chapter Better wage systems are fundamental for paying living wages and fair compensation and to measure progress, it is necessary to track real data on wages paid, measure how global fashion brands are training their buying teams, how they are ensuring worker access to

281、 collective bargaining agreements and effective dispute resolution mechanisms and implementing roadmaps to upholding living wage and fair compensation. As more brandstake responsibility in this area, the industry can make collective progress towards fairer practices. Fig.5 - The Industry We Want / W

282、age Gap MetricDevised in partnership with the WageIndicator Foundation45% Since 2015, Fair Labor Association (FLA) and FLA companies have collected wage data to track living wage progress in its members supply chains against the Global Living Wage Coalition estimates and Anker methodology. Through t

283、his work, FLA can track progress of wages in key sourcing countries and measure the living wage gap. From 2020 to 2021, FLA data showed the average monthly wages increased by 13.5% in China (sample size of 416 factory wage data sets) and 25.1% in Turkey (sample size of 42 factory wage data sets). Th

284、e Industry We Want (TIWW) presented a Wage Gap metric in March 2022 of 45%. This shows that the average percentage gap between minimum wages and the average living wage estimate in key garment producing countries in TIWWs data set is 45%. For better insight into real wage data, TIWW and Fair Wear ar

285、e working with industry stakeholders to align real wage data collection tools.Global Fashion Agenda and Higg aim to measure and present the fashion industrys progress towards Respectful and Secure Work Environments annually in the GFA Monitor. Working together, we are establishing a reporting framew

286、ork to identify data points, converge existing approaches, and capture insights from report contributors.We invite other organisations to contribute to this work as we leverage existing initiatives and capture new insights to establish baselines and present industry progress in years to come. Learn

287、more about our industry engagement process here.p.39Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterPolicyIn relation to Better Wage Systems, a non-binding communication on “decent work worldwide” was published alongside the proposal for a Directive on corporate sustainability due diligence (cf. previo

288、us priority) by the European Commission. The communication details how the Commission intends to ban goods made with forced labour from circulating within the EU Single Market and sets out upcoming and existing EU tools in four areas: EU policies and initiatives with outreach beyond the EU; EU bilat

289、eral and regional relations; EU in international and multilateral fora and engagement with stakeholders and in global partnerships. Furthermore, fair living wages and decent living are included a part of the list of violations of human rights and environmental obligations included in the Directives

290、annex. At the US level, the “Fashion Act” that was introduced by New York State Senator Alessandra Biaggi and Assemblywoman Anna R. Kelles also proposes measures on supply chain mapping for increased transparency and traceability in the supply chain.Lastly the EUs different regulations on sustainabl

291、e finance (i.e. the Taxonomy Regulation that sets out theoverarching conditions that an economic activity has to meet in order to qualify as environmentally sustainable) are also expected to play an important role when it comes to channelling investment to ESG-positive companies.p.40Contents / Bette

292、r Wage Systems / Next chapterBetter wage systems require a collective commitment to living wages and fair compensationBetter wage systems are as much about values and attitudes as they are about terms and conditions. Specifically, the concept of the living wage and fair compensation and the principl

293、e of equal pay for equal work are central to the ubiquitous adoption of fair pay in the fashion industry. Brands should consider themselves enablers of these concepts and seek to rally other stakeholders, especially their suppliers, around systemic change. At the corporate level, top brands should l

294、ead by example and make living wage and fair compensation a central element of their business strategies and adopt purchasing practices that support real wage growth, incentivise equal pay, and make investment in people the norm. Moreover, senior executives at fashion brands should empower procureme

295、nt teams to reward suppliers who are resourcing living wage and fair compensation and sustainability efforts and making a verified impact. There should also be reporting channels to the top that include updates on progress towards living wage and fair compensation and overall working conditions. Sup

296、plier agreements can become tools to aggregate bargaining power, co-fund investments in better wage systems, share the risk of the transition to more responsible purchasing and payment practices, and protect vulnerable groups from wage discrimination.Governments in manufacturing countries need to be

297、 addressed through an aligned industry voice to foster the introduction of laws and agreements that support living wages and fair compensations, enabled by freedom of association and collective bargaining. Investors seeking to channel their capital to ESG-positive companies can be important allies i

298、n the fight for fair pay, e.g., by supporting the incorporation of the rights of workers into ESG ratings. p.41Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterCollective BargainingProcess of all negotiations between an employer (or employers organisation) and one or more trade unions, with the aim of d

299、eveloping a collective bargaining agreement. (Fair Wear Foundation)GlossaryCorrective Action Plans (CAPs) A plan that seeks to address and resolve an issue, for instance a breach of compliance in environmental or social sustainability practices. Fair Compensation Workers right to compensation within

300、 a regular working week that is sufficient to meet their basic needs and have some discretionary income. Employers shall pay at least the minimum wage or the appropriate prevailing wage, whichever is higher, comply with all legal requirements on wages, and provide any benefits required by law or con

301、tract. (Fair Labor Association)Informal Work Where employment relationships between a worker and their employers are not recognised or protected. In the garment industry, this can be common amongst waste handlers and home-based workers.Labour Costing Systems Whereby brands accept responsibility to e

302、nsure that labour costs are calculated and can verify that the price paid allows the payment of wages and all other labour costs. (ACT)Living Wage The remuneration received for a standard work week by a worker in a particular place sufficient to afford a decent standard of living for the worker and

303、her or his family. Elements of a decent standard of living include food, water, housing, education, health care, transportation, clothing, and other essential needs including provision for unexpected events. (Global Living Wage Coalition)Minimum WageThe minimum amount of remuneration that an employe

304、r is required to pay wage earners for the work performed during a given period, which cannot be reduced by collective agreement or an individual contract. (ILO)Ring-FencingCosting-model where suppliers and buyers negotiate prices on an open-costing basis where wage costs are reflected as a costing b

305、lock of the overall purchasing price. (ACT)Union BustingWhere dismissals are made on the basis of union membership and non-union workers are hired in place of union members. (Fashion Revolution)13245869107Wage Parity Equal pay for work of equal value regardless of gender, race, religion, age, disabi

306、lity, nationality, sexual orientation, social group, or ethnic origin. Contents / Better Wage Systems / Next chapterResource Stewardshipp.43Contents / Resource Stewardship / Next chapterPlanet Earth is rich in natural resources. Human demand, however, is rapidly outgrowing natural supply.Good stewar

307、dship109 of natural resources is essential to protect the planet and the wellbeing of future generations. Fashion is a multi-trillion-dollar industry110 that contributes up to four per cent of global CO2 emissions annually.111 According to the IPCC, continued trajected emission growth will bring ris

308、e to global temperatures, extreme weathers and subsequent consequences for people, business, and our planet. 112 If it proceeds on the current trajectory, the industry will fall short of the decarbonisation targets113 required to conform with the 1.5-degree pathway.114 A net-positive fashion industr

309、y requires a holistic resource stewardship approach, comprising of drastic action across four key impact areas:115Apparel Impact Institute (Aii) identifies, funds, and scales proven quality solutions to accelerate positive environmental impact from the production of apparel and footwear products to

310、improve the industry. Aiis Clean by Design programme for instance identifies opportunities for wet processing mills to improve operational and environmental efficiency and provides support through a multi-year continuous improvement roadmap. Brands must play a critical role in achieving net zero by

311、2050 and it begins with a return to shared values, collective action, and unlocking capital. Lewis PerkinsPresident, Apparel Impact Institute Website Alliance for Water Stewardship PEFC Policy Hub WWF ZDHC Textile Exchange The Microfibre Consortium Fashion For Good Impact PartnerOther contributors t

312、o this chapter“Apparel Impact Institute Go to section Go to section Go to section Go to section1234Increasing energy efficiency and the use of renewable sources to divert coal use, curb emissions to air and limit global warming.Driving towards less extractive sourcing models and adopt regenerative s

313、olutions to lower the impact on land and protect biodiversity.Pursuing a context-driven approach to water stewardship that aims to mitigate shared water risks and contributes to positive basin outcomes and value creation at scale.Eliminating hazardous chemicals and ramping up sustainable chemical ma

314、nagement to minimise the risk to water, land, and people.Achieving resource stewardship will depend on coordinated, multi-stakeholder action to reduce GHG emissions and decisive innovation in areas such as new materials, manufacturing methods, and business models. Ultimately, value creation must be

315、decoupled from product volume and emission growth. To achieve this, the industry should work to transition to a circular economy. See Circular Systems.Increasingly, fashion companies recognise the magnitude of the challenge. Many players have set science-based targets aligned with the 1.5-degree pat

316、hway. An aligned industry direction is required to take advantage of further decarbonisation opportunities.116 Higg p.44Contents / Resource Stewardship / Next chapterScaling clean energyFashion is a major energy consumer with 70 per cent of the industrys emissions stemming from Scope 3117 upstream a

317、ctivities such as materials production, preparation, and processing.118 Current operations mostly rely on non-renewable energy sources, such as petroleum, gas, oil, and coal. While there is a lack of complete data for greenhouse gas emissions, there is little doubt that fashion is among the biggest

318、GHG emitters, and that there is an urgent need for action to reduce the carbon footprint of the industry.119 120 The Fashion On Climate report revealed that if the fashion industry does not accelerate its response to climate change, by 2030 it will produce around twice the volume of emissions requir

319、ed to align with the Paris Agreement global warming pathways towards net zero emissions by 2050. Whereas most abatement actions in the reports Carbon Cost Curve prove to save money in the long-term, sometimes upfront investment or behaviour change are a criterium1Raw Material ExtractionTIER 4SCOPE 3

320、SCOPE 1 & 2241 M TONNES CO2EQ156 M TONNES CO2EQ536 M TONNES CO2EQ91 M TONNES CO2EQ24%15%52%9%TIER 3TIER 2TIER 1TIER 0Cultivation and extraction of raw materials from the earth, plants, or animals.Processing ofraw materialsinto yarn and other intermediate products.Production and finishing of material

321、s (e.g. fabric, trims) that go directly into finished product.Assembly and manufacturing of final products.Corporate real-estate not involved in production process.Raw Material ProcessingMaterial ProductionFinished Product AssemblyOffice, Retail, Distribution CentresFig.6 WRI & AII (2021) Four Tier

322、Supply Chain Model and GHG Emissions per Tier. Source: Unlocking the trillion-dollar fashion decarbonisation opportunity: Existing and innovative solutions (2021)p.45Contents / Resource Stewardship / Next chapterIn 2021, AII and WRI outlined six interventions to decarbonise the fashion industry. Col

323、lectively, these interventions have the potential to deliver more than 60 per cent of the emission reductions121 required to align the apparel sector with the 45 per cent reduction pathway by 2030 and net zero GHG emissions by 2050. Key levers include maximising energy efficiency, eliminating coal i

324、n manufacturing and shifting to renewable energy. These actions need to be further accelerated to meet one of the two pathways presented in the more recent, updated UNFCCC Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action target of 50 per cent reduction by 2030 as announced during COP26.Transitioning prod

325、uction to renewable electricity across the fashion value chain presents significant and necessary near-term abatement potential of all emissions. While costs for procuring renewable energy still form a high barrier and are largely influenced by policy, considerable reduction in costs have been obser

326、ved during the past decade, and the switch to renewables has become increasingly accessible.122 Though the substitution of fossil fuels with renewable alternatives and the increase of energy efficiency still face a common challenge: financing. 123 The return on investments in renewable energy varies

327、 from country to country. In any case, the necessary technology requires high up-front investments and supportive policy is a critical enabler for adequate and feasible financing mechanisms. Consequently, textile mills and other manufacturing facilities remain hesitant to advance the investments eve

328、n though such investment has been demonstrated to lead to net savings.124 Similar issues exist with respect to investments in energy efficiency. In some cases, payback is achieved in less than 18 months after implementation, but the up-front costs and pay back periods vary depending on the specific

329、type of intervention.125 Moreover, investing in innovative solutions geared at improving energy efficiency may present higher risk profiles than existing solutions and may require further research and development, thus making finance harder to secure.126Case Study Global Fashion Group Carbon Neutral

330、ity Strategy Since 2020, Global Fashion Group has maintained carbon neutrality across its own operations (Scope 1 & 2) and customer deliveries (Scope 3) through a robust carbon offsetting portfolio. While Global Fashion Group recognises that offsetting is not the primary tool to fundamentally addres

331、s the climate crisis, its commitment to carbon neutrality allows it to support climate positive actions outside of the business, while creating an important impetus for change internally. Through the purchasing of verifiable carbon credits originating from certified renewable energy projects, 186,49

332、2 tonnes of verified CO2 emission reductions have been offset over two years. To aid responsible offsetting best practice, Global Fashion Group has developed a 6-part assessment framework supporting offset purchasing, resulting in the selected supporting the development of low carbon energy solution

333、s in emerging markets - Brazil, China and India. All Global Fashion Groups carbon projects are certified under international offset standards recognised by the International Carbon Reduction and Offset Alliance, meaning in addition to their carbon benefits, these projects generate social benefits to the local communities such as jobs and training opportunities. Carbon offsetting is not the only an

展开阅读全文
相关资源
相关搜索

当前位置:首页 > 行业报告数据库 > 今日报告

相关推荐:
  • GFW:2022年时尚行业报告(EN).pdf(定稿)

  • (打印版)GFW:2022年时尚行业报告(EN).pdf

  • (新版)GFW:2022年时尚行业报告(EN).pdf

  • 关于我们                               联系我们


    copyright@ 2008-2013        长沙景略智创信息技术有限公司版权所有
    经营许可证编号:湘ICP备17000430